Choosing the right hair developer is crucial for achieving optimal results when coloring your hair. A hair developer, also known as a hair bleach activator or simply "developer," is a chemical solution that, when mixed with hair dye, activates the dye to penetrate the hair shaft and deposit or lift color. Here’s a guide to help you choose the best hair developer for your needs:
Understanding Developers
Developers contain hydrogen peroxide, which is responsible for the chemical reaction that alters the hair color. The concentration of hydrogen peroxide is measured in "volumes," commonly available in 10, 20, 30, and 40 volumes.
Types of Developers
- 10 Volume (3%): Suitable for very minor adjustments in color or depositing color on pre-lightened hair.
- 20 Volume (6%): Good for most general hair coloring needs, including covering grays and depositing color on natural hair.
- 30 Volume (9%): Used for lightening the hair one to two levels and depositing color.
- 40 Volume (12%): Suitable for lightening the hair three or more levels, typically used for dramatic color changes or when lifting dark hair to a lighter shade.
Factors to Consider When Choosing a Developer
- Current Hair Color and Texture: If your hair is already light, a lower-volume developer might be sufficient. For dark hair, you may need a higher-volume developer to lift the color.
- Desired Result: If you want a subtle change, a lower volume might work. For a significant change in color, a higher volume might be required.
- Processing Time: Higher volumes generally process faster. If you have fine or damaged hair, a lower volume can help prevent damage.
- Hair Health: Higher volumes can be harsher on the hair, causing dryness and damage. If your hair is already damaged, opt for a lower volume.
- Experience: If you’re a beginner, starting with a lower volume can help you achieve a more controlled result.
Tips for Using Developers
- Read Instructions: Always read the instructions that come with your hair dye product.
- Patch Test: Perform a patch test to ensure you’re not allergic to the developer or dye.
- Strand Test: Conduct a strand test to see the actual result on your hair before applying the color all over.
- Mixing: Mix the developer and dye thoroughly but quickly, as the mixture starts working immediately.
- Application: Apply the mixture evenly throughout the hair, starting from the roots and working towards the ends.
- Timing: Follow the recommended processing time provided with the hair dye product.
Choosing the Right Developer
- Subtle Change: For a slight change or to refresh color, use a 10 or 20 volume developer.
- General Coloring: For covering grays or depositing color, a 20 volume developer is usually sufficient.
- Lightening: If you need to lighten your hair color, a 30 volume developer can be effective for one to two levels of lift.
- Dramatic Lightening: For more than two levels of lift, a 40 volume developer might be necessary.
Final Thoughts
Selecting the right developer is a critical step in the hair coloring process. It affects the final color result, the health of your hair, and the duration of the process. If you're unsure about the best developer for your needs, consulting a professional stylist can provide valuable advice and help you achieve the desired outcome safely and effectively.