Developers play a crucial role in the hair coloring process. They are used to activate the hair dye and enable the chemical changes necessary to alter the hair's color. Here’s a comprehensive explanation of what developers do to your hair, based on insights from experts in the field:
What Developers Do
Developers contain hydrogen peroxide, which acts as an oxidizing agent. When mixed with hair dye, the developer facilitates the following processes:
- Activation of Dye Molecules: The hydrogen peroxide in the developer activates the dye molecules, allowing them to penetrate the hair shaft.
- Color Deposition: Once activated, the dye molecules bind to the keratin proteins in the hair, depositing the new color.
- Color Lifting: For lightening the hair, the developer also helps break down the existing melanin (natural hair pigment) within the hair shaft, enabling the hair to become lighter.
Types of Developers and Their Effects
Developers come in different volumes, each with distinct effects:
- 10 Volume (3%): Mild developer, suitable for toning and very subtle color changes. It doesn't lift the natural color much.
- 20 Volume (6%): Versatile and commonly used for general coloring, covering gray, and depositing color. It can lift the hair by one to two levels.
- 30 Volume (9%): Stronger, used for lifting the hair by two to three levels and depositing color. It’s effective for moderate color changes.
- 40 Volume (12%): The strongest, capable of lifting the hair by three to four levels. It’s used for significant color changes and lifting dark hair to lighter shades.
How Developers Work Inside the Hair
When the developer and dye are mixed and applied to the hair:
- Swelling of the Cuticle: The hydrogen peroxide causes the cuticle layer of the hair to swell, opening it up.
- Penetration: The swollen cuticle allows the dye molecules and hydrogen peroxide to enter the cortex of the hair.
- Chemical Reaction: Inside the cortex, the hydrogen peroxide reacts with the dye molecules, allowing them to bond with the keratin in the hair.
- Color Fixation: As the cuticle returns to its normal state, it traps the newly deposited color inside the hair, fixing it in place.
Impact on Hair Health
While developers are essential for coloring, they can also affect the health of your hair:
- Moisture Depletion: The oxidizing action can strip the hair of moisture, leaving it dry and potentially brittle.
- Protein Damage: Overuse or misuse of strong developers can lead to protein damage, weakening the hair structure.
- Porosity Changes: Repeated use can alter the hair's porosity, affecting how it absorbs and retains color and moisture.
Expert Tips
To minimize the potential negative effects of developers:
- Conditioning: Use deep-conditioning treatments regularly to replenish lost moisture and strengthen the hair.
- Developer Selection: Choose the lowest volume developer that will achieve your desired result to reduce damage.
- Application Technique: Apply the developer and dye mixture evenly and follow the recommended processing time.
- Aftercare: Use sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners designed for colored hair to preserve the color and maintain hair health.
Conclusion
Developers are indispensable tools in hair coloring, facilitating the deposition of new color and, in some cases, the lifting of the natural hair pigment. By understanding how developers work and selecting the appropriate volume for your needs, you can achieve the desired hair color while minimizing potential damage to your hair. Consulting with a professional stylist can also provide personalized advice and ensure the best results for your specific hair type and coloring goals.